Dress with Bustle

Dress belonging to HM the Queen, Mª Cristina of Hapsburg, 1879.

Marks: There are three shields printed in gold and the inscription (on the inside of the bodice) G. & E. SPITZER./ VIENNE. KARNTHNERRING 12

Bodice in a mixed, burgundy-coloured, silk confection. It is fitted and has a wide boatneck, very short sleeve, bodice stiffened with whalebone, pointed front, train at the back and closing at the back over a visible line of leaf eyelets and a drawstring ribbon in purple silk with metal aglets at the tip of each leaf and metal hook and eyes on the upper and lower borders. It is made of purple, brocaded satin composed of two different fabrics: brocaded satin in purple with small flower motifs aligned in three vertical channels in the direction of the warp combined with a purple satin. It has two bust pleats cut vertically that extend to the tip, two side pleats and another two on the back. There is also a seam on the sides, in the front centre and on the shoulder. The bodice has 11 whalebones in the seams, pleats and the vertical line of the closing. The lining is in ecru-coloured silk serge, the whalebone lining is of ecru-coloured silk ribbon. The lantern sleeve is short and richly gathered in the underarm and is finished off with a narrow flounce. The neckline is finished off in threaded, grosgrain ribbon in unbleached silk colour. The lining of the waist and train is in purple silk that folds frontwards in a superimposed double layer. The train is in darker purple silk-satin, it has a deep central tuck and pleat on the sides. There are also 4 round weights. It has striped satin tying ribbon in ecru colour. Decoration: Draped satin sash along the neckline, the tip of which on the left shoulder serves as a clasp. It closes on the left shoulder with two hook and eyes, the rim of which are lined. It has a superimposed front panel in purple satin in the dress’s centre that is finished off in a flounce at the edges and puffed lines. The sleeve and neckline are trimmed with a very open taffeta flounce in burgundy-coloured silk.

Inventory: MT-000416A-B y MT-000417

Bibliography:

• Moda en sombras. Catálogo de la exposición temporal, p.155. 1991.
• LLORENTE LLORENTE, Lucina. The Queen’s Bustle, ca. 1879. Model of the Month, April 2007. Museo del Traje.
• PENA GONZÁLEZ, Pablo. La moda en la Restauración, 1868-1890. 2011. 25, fig. 16; Traje de paseo, 1879; Indumenta 2, pp. 6-34.
• Visitas Regias. Puerto de Gijón. 2004. 96-97, photo; German-style dress that belonged to the Queen María Cristina of Hapsburg, second wife of Alfonso XII. Day dress that the queen must have brought in her luggage. Highly appropriate for the winter season, given the characteristics of the fabric.